Other than a yoke of a draught animal, a harness, gear, or tackle is used (as a horse, dog, or goat). The modern saddle appeared to have been invented in China about the year 500 and used in Europe by 800.
In Western civilizations, a basic harness for horses consists of a padded leather collar that rests on the horse’s shoulders and numerous straps. The collar is held together by two complex metal components called hames, which are attached at the top and bottom by hame straps. The traces, which run back along the animal’s flanks and link to the load, are joined to this assemblage. Other straps encircle and reinforce the animal’s body. Reins are long straps that run from the horse’s bridle (q.v. ), through loops in the hames, and back to the driver’s hands, where they are used to control the animal.
The shafts are frequently supported by a back pad, a narrow leather cushion that rests on the horse’s back and is joined to the post by straps and held in place by a perimeter, or bellyband, and a backband encircle the horse’s waste entirely.
The martingale, a system of straps attached to the saddle and bridle that maintain a horse’s head or check its upward movement, is decorated with horse brass. However, the usage of these embellishments extends back to the Middle Ages; most English horse brass dates from after 1830. There have been earlier cases, although they are uncommon. Before 1830, latten, a brass alloy, was employed, with the perforated design cut by hand. The majority of the later variations are made of cast brass that is occasionally plated. Many were made in Walsall and Birmingham in the second half of the nineteenth century. Horse brasses have been recorded in over 1,000 different designs, ranging from early sun flashes worn on the horse’s face to later regional and commemorative horse brasses manufactured in the twentieth century.
Deep cleaning your equipment is beneficial. Regularly, perhaps twice a year. Regardless of how recently they were used, all horse blankets, saddle pads, polo wraps, and grooming items should be washed. Once you’ve finished your “deep cleaning,” make sure your storage options help to keep things clean. I keep all of my clean, dry blankets and linens in large plastic bins when I’m not using them. Make sure your containers are labeled with their contents so you can find what you need quickly. If you discover that you aren’t using particular goods regularly, consider selling or giving them after cleaning.
Use only specialised horse tack
To keep your horse’s equipment in its original state, you should only use specialized items rather than attempting to utilize home cures, which can cause discoloration, dryness, and irreversible cracking.
There are specialized products available to assist you in cleaning your horse’s tack gently yet thoroughly. Leather soap is usually sold as a liquid, or solid bar that may sponge or cloth straight on your tack then wiped away any excess – keep in mind that damp leather stretches and wet metal can rust. Allow your nail to dry naturally, as it can become complicated and crack if dried too rapidly. Once your tack is dry, apply tack conditioners to properly nurture your leather while also giving it a glossy sheen. Bits and stirrups can be cleaned with a professional cleaner or hot soapy water. Before reinstalling the bits, they should be thoroughly cleaned and dried.
It’s a brilliant idea to invest in multi-functional products if you want to get the most out of your money. There are conditioners with stain-repelling characteristics, for example, that will keep your tack looking beautiful for longer. There are even oils and leather dressings designed to increase the suppleness of new leather tack and the condition of old and worn leather tack.